It’s a marvel Île de Ré exists. For starters, this French island is crêpe-flat (and its seashores are the identical shade as pancake batter). When the swell comes rolling in alongside the west and south coasts – that is the Atlantic Ocean in spite of everything – it’s tough to grasp how the ocean doesn’t swallow the island complete.
This isn’t your easy fly-and-flop island – the structure right here tells the tales of rich retailers that traded Île de Ré’s salt and wine for stones to construct their properties. Cycle into the center of the island, and also you’ll both end up surrounded by vineyards or on the curious criss-cross of paths raised above the salt flats, the place oyster dredgers’ huts look over occasion hat-shaped piles of salt.
Commercial
Extraordinarily accessible, with a bridge linking it to La Rochelle on the mainland, it’s not stunning that it’s a favourite with bucket-and-spade waving French households as quickly as the vacations hit. There’s a seashore for everybody, be your model windsurfing, paddleboarding, or hiding from the wind among the many sand dunes with a great e-book.
When ought to I’m going to Île de Ré?
The island is very seasonal and infrequently awash with Parisians through the summer season holidays. However go to in winter and it’ll really feel fairly empty; the year-round inhabitants of the entire island is beneath 18,000. There’s one thing oddly magical about winter when the Atlantic storms sweep in, and for the reason that island is linked to the mainland by a bridge, you don’t want to fret about getting marooned in inclement climate. Summer season guests are within the hundreds of thousands, and the overwhelming majority arrive in July and August. The climate is reliably heat and sunny, however lodging is at a premium, and also you’ll have to e-book properly upfront.
June and September are beautiful months to go to. Lodging and actions are open for prime season, and salt harvesting season (June to September) is underway.
A lot of the island’s festivals happen in the summertime. Jazz au Phare (Jazz on the Lighthouse) runs for 5 days in early August on the Phare des Baleines, the lighthouse on the westernmost tip of the island. You may should pay to attend the principle occasions of the pageant but it surely runs alongside a programme of free occasions, together with café concert events.
How a lot time ought to I spend in Île de Ré?
How lengthy is a chunk of string, or moderately, how a lot do you’re keen on the seashore? If you wish to vacation French-style, camp out right here for a complete month, spending lengthy, lazy days on the seashore, or pedaling languidly from oyster shack to oyster shack. If you happen to don’t profit from the identical beneficiant vacation allowance, you would simply see the entire island in three or 4 days, and that’s exploring by bike: the cycle trails are all flat.
Commercial
After I was a toddler we’d go for every week. That labored properly, however I’d by no means have mentioned no to longer. Consider journey time to La Rochelle, the mainland metropolis from which you entry Ile de Ré. There are direct flights from the UK; from the US you’ll seemingly arrive in Paris or Bordeaux, every 2 ½ hours from La Rochelle by practice.
Is it straightforward to get in and round Île de Ré?
Biking isn’t only a mode of transport right here, it’s a faith. Île de Ré isn’t car-free however driving isn’t probably the most environment friendly method of getting from A to B; partly since parking is restricted and infrequently very costly, and partly as a result of the entire roads are pockmarked with dozens of crossings for pedestrians and cyclists, who’ve precedence. Lots of the historic little cities, reminiscent of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, have slim little cobbled streets, making squeezing by in an SUV anxious and ugly. There’s additionally a implausible community of electrical shuttle buses on the island, that are utterly free for guests.
Upon arrival (by street, through the bridge), there’s a obligatory entry toll of between €8-16 Euros (US$8.45-16.90), relying on the season. This payment goes in direction of preserving the island’s nature and funding implausible initiatives just like the free shuttle buses. There’s no payment for leaving. It’s additionally attainable to reach by crusing boat, and you may convey your bike on board.
High issues to do in Île de Ré
Kayak the marshes at Loix
Kayaking round Loix is slightly like parkour on water. Not as a result of it’s excessive – removed from it in truth, it’s the right time out for households – however as a result of the continually altering tides imply that you could paddle up little creeks the place you’ll typically want to slip your kayak down mudbanks, or wade by the mud, to get out once more. Canoë Salé runs guided excursions that are invaluable in such a labyrinth. From above the warren of marshes and salt flats seems to be like a patchwork quilt.
Off the water, Loix seems to be like one of many extra uninspiring cities on the island, but it surely’s one of the vital lived in, with heaps of character. It’s dwelling to the island’s finest bookshop, Atelier Quillet, which has an on-site café serving coffees made with domestically roasted beans. There’s additionally a workshop specializing within the restoration of outdated paperwork and for a guided go to costing simply €5 (US$5.30), you’ll be able to see how they do it.
Discover the gorgeous streets of Saint-Martin-de-Ré
A fishing city with a strategic location, Saint-Martin-de-Ré got here into its personal within the Center Ages, when it was used for commerce and as a navy base. Within the seventeenth century, the well-known navy engineer Vauban fortified the city to withstand Dutch and English invasions, and far of the ramparts and imposing entrance arch are nonetheless standing right this moment.
The streets look as if they’ve been plucked from the creativeness of an inside designer. A lot of the homes are whitewashed or pastel-coloured, with brightly painted shutters and an abundance of creeping vegetation and bulging window packing containers. Alongside the outdated harbor are heaps of eating places, most specializing in seafood and a few are very upmarket. Locals head to no-frills hooked up Le Bistrot du Marin.
Be taught to surf at Le Bois Plage
Significantly through the summer season, the surf on Île de Ré tends to be fairly mild, with constant waves good for newbies. Surf’in Ré has their surf college on Gros Joncs Seashore, a golden sand seashore framed by dunes and an extended, raised picket boardwalk.
Eat oysters within the salt flats
The one factor there’s extra of than oyster fields on Île de Ré is vineyards, and wine and oysters make for a heady mixture. In London, the saying goes that you just’re by no means various ft from a rat. On Ile de Ré, the identical might be mentioned for oyster shacks. Significantly price visiting is La Cabane Océane, the place you’ll be able to eat oysters al fresco with a view over the ocean.
Flop on the sand
There’s a seashore for everybody right here, whether or not your model is sunbathing, stress-free with a calming glass of wine in hand, or filling your day with browsing, kite browsing, windsurfing, paddleboarding. Among the many prettiest is Trousse Chemise Seashore, which moderately oddly interprets as “Shirt Bag Seashore.” Simply offshore is a sandbank referred to as Le Banc du Bûcheron, solely seen at low tide. Arrive on the proper second and you may stroll out and picnic on the sandbar. Lots of the seashores have rocks within the water; pack applicable sneakers.
My favourite factor to do in Île de Ré
It must be seeing the donkeys sporting pajamas in Saint-Martin-de-Ré. That is pure nostalgia, however as a child I used to be completely fascinated by the sight of donkeys wearing striped trousers.
How a lot cash do I want for Île de Ré?
Whereas eating places and actions are likely to price roughly the identical as on the mainland, lodging will be considerably greater, notably in the summertime holidays. Playing cards are extensively accepted, but it surely’s a good suggestion to have some money, notably for the little oyster shacks. The next costs are primarily based on the excessive season (July-August).
-
Campsite: From €30 (US$31.65) for 2 folks with their very own tent
-
Primary room for 2: From €150 (US$158.30)
-
Self-catering condominium (together with Airbnb): From €100 (US$105.50)
-
Bike rental: From €14/day (US$14.80)
-
Shuttle bus ticket: free!
-
Espresso: From €1.50 for an espresso (US$1.60)
-
Sandwich: €6-12 (US$6.35-12.65)
-
Dinner for 2: €50+ (US$52.75)
-
Beer/pint on the bar: €8 (US$8.45)
