Journey journalist James March shouldn’t be proof against the charms of France’s Côte d’Azur and will get why that could be your first selection for a seaside vacation in France – however this is why he thinks you need to take into account visiting the Vendée area as an alternative.
Ah, the French Riviera. Flanked on one facet by the Mediterranean’s glittering turquoise waters and golden arcing seashores whereas craggy cinematic mountains rise on the opposite, its glamorous coastal cities in between have attracted the world’s excessive society and inventive glitterati each summer season for nicely over a century.
Queen Victoria vacationed right here within the Eighteen Eighties, F Scott Fitzgerald wrote novels right here within the Twenties and The Rolling Stones recorded albums right here within the Sixties. And now, within the twenty first century, the Côte d’Azur is as common as ever. However France is an enormous nation, and the Vendée on its sun-kissed Atlantic coast holds loads of magic of its personal and presents an enthralling different to one of many nation’s all-time most fantastic summer season locations.
The glamour and the glitz of the Côte d’Azur are nicely documented…
Operating from lemon-filled Menton close to the Italian border down in direction of the historic port metropolis of Toulon (although there is no official boundary), the Côte d’Azur is a picturesque stretch of Mediterranean coast within the south of France populated by a number of well-known and well-heeled cities and cities.
From the blue and white parasols dotting Good’s crescent-shaped shores to the pristine seashores and modern million-dollar yachts at Cannes and Saint-Tropez, there’s an unmistakable attract to this nook of France and its recognition by no means fades. And that is additionally not a shock when sunshine beams onto its 115 kilometers of shoreline for 330 days of the 12 months.
It isn’t simply wide-eyed worldwide guests who go to both. So many Parisians love escaping the French capital each summer season that the A6 freeway linking Paris to the Riviera has been nicknamed the Autoroute du Soleil, that means ‘freeway of the solar.’
All this motion provides up, nonetheless, and the Côte d’Azur now receives round 13 million guests yearly (pre-covid), that means its cities turn out to be crowded and resort rooms are snapped up nicely upfront. That glamour and recognition have additionally led to invariably excessive costs at these resorts and amongst its some 3000 eating places. In order seductive as this well-known slice of France is, there’s an intriguing different possibility round 800km away on the west coast.
… however the Vendée presents one thing refreshingly completely different in summer season
Spreading out between the cities of Nantes and La Rochelle on France’s western coast, the Vendée is a small however splendid area to the south of Brittany’s protruding peninsula. Although lined in locations by rocky cliffs, it is a far cry from the wild North Atlantic. In reality, the Vendée sits in a light microclimate and basks within the glow of 2500 annual hours of sunshine, with summers seeing little or no rainfall.
With that pretty local weather in thoughts, the seaside is the place to begin. Huge yawning sands stretch towards the horizon at Les Sables d’Olonne and Demoiselles Seaside, whereas the dramatic corniche at St Gilles Croix-de-Vie conceals some wonderful hidden coves which are typically totally vacant.
Above these coves, the Corniche Vendéenne is a breezy 3km strolling path that takes in some pleasant views, significantly when passing by the good-looking Grosse Terre lighthouse with the candy odor of the inexperienced maritime pine timber for firm and distant fishing boats trundling throughout the shimmering waters.
These calm waters can be found for exploring too, and Semvie Nautisme leads easy-going boating journeys from St Gilles Croix-de-Vie’s quaint harbor, providing friends the prospect to steer their sailboats and luxuriate in some unbelievable panoramic views.
Inland behind Saint Gilles, the panorama shifts dramatically. With its tree-less scenes of neat salt ponds, lonely hay bales, outdated stone cottages and stylish herons gliding overhead, the five hundred hectares of flat salt marshes at Marais Salant Prédevie’s a captivating swap from the basic coastal scenes close by and excursions can be found.
The number of landscapes solely prospers additional south, the place e-bike excursions from Libert E Trott begin at Les Sables-d’Olonne’s mast-filled harbor and wind out to the expansive coast earlier than diving into the mild dips and climbs of the luxurious inexperienced Forest of Olonne. Although the hills aren’t taxing, the electrical push of the bikes means decrease stress in your legs and extra time to understand the passing surroundings.
For these desirous to discover the marshes additional, Octopusglisse guides newcomers on a glide by these calm waters in a pirogue hawaienne (a sort of outrigger canoe). And below the Vendéenne morning solar with swaying reeds and cute cottages passing by, it is a tranquil and virtually therapeutic approach to begin a day.
Past the marshes, a extra acquainted French scene seems with acres of rolling inexperienced vineyards in neat rows. Wines from this area are generally known as ‘Fiefs-vendéens’ and include their character, particularly these whites like chenin and chardonnay with salty notes influenced by the close by terroir. Discover some true fiefs-vendéens at Domaine St Nicolas, the place tastings with gregarious proprietor Thierry Michon should not be missed.
Nevertheless, this coastal area’s gastronomy is dominated by one product – the standard sardine. Again at Saint Gilles Croix-de-Vie, harvesting this small fish runs deep into the cultural material and few locations are higher than Le Banc de Sardines. A humble harbourside seafood shack, consuming is restricted to wood benches outdoors and the sardines are caught recent that morning and served alongside fluffy potatoes. With a glass of white wine, they’re divine.
After this tantalizing style, study extra about how fishing in St Gilles has advanced over time with the thrilling reveals on present on the Escale Pêche Discovery Centre, whereas the L’Atelier de la Sardine presents extra of a deep dive (no pun supposed) into sardine fishing itself.
The Chemin de la Sardine (‘Sardine Route’) is a captivating strolling path by some historic fishing neighborhoods and opens up the city’s character somewhat extra. A extra wide-ranging strolling tour takes place again in Les Sables-d’Olonne, the place strolling by its arcing seaside and whitewashed villas like Palazzo Clementine are harking back to Good’s Promenade Anglais. Additionally they take their gastronomy critically right here, particularly on the gaudy Halles Centrales meals corridor and stylish Michelin-star eating places like L’Abissiou.
Although the slim lanes and pastel shutters of Les Sables’ historic l’ile Penotte neighborhood could be achingly picturesque on their very own, a number of partitions are lined within the authentic seashell frescos of native artist Daniele Arnaud-Aubin, who has crafted colourful depictions of cats, ships, vampires, bats and different often macabre photos.
So whereas the Vendée does not have the glitzy standing of the Cote d’Azur, its attractive climate twinned with some fabulous seashores, curious native quirks, nice meals and a love of the outside makes it an enthralling different.
Methods to make it occur
Nantes Atlantique Airport is the closest worldwide airport, and trains from Nantes metropolis heart to St Gilles Croix-de-Vie take round 1hr 14min, whereas Les Sables d’Olonne is somewhat longer at 1hr 35min.
Should you’re beginning your journey from Paris, then direct trains run from Gare Montparnasse to Nantes in two hours, the place you’ll be able to change towards both coastal city.
This nook of France may be very common with Parisians trying to escape the Metropolis of Mild for a couple of days, so ebook forward as early as attainable.
James visited the Vendée on the invitation of Atout France. Lonely Planet contributors don’t settle for freebies in return for constructive protection.
